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    我国饮食类非物质文化遗产的传承与发展(2003~2017)

    摘要

    从人类非物质文化遗产名录、中国国家非物质文化遗产名录中析出饮食类非物质文化遗产。以此为基础,应用历史地理文献方法追溯了中国饮食类非物质文化遗产的食物基础是“北粟南稻”,它承载了浓郁的中华文化内涵与传统。不同的饮食类非物质文化遗产都体现了显著的民族性、地域性,传承过程的文化共享性,携带着独特的文化基因和象征意义。本文以两个案例分别分析了粽子的文化内涵与传承、丽江古城的饮食类非遗的艰难传承。最后讨论认为饮食类非物质文化遗产的传承,存在政策解析、工艺革新、市场化境遇三个基本讨论点。①各个年龄阶层、社会阶层、部门机构等都对饮食类非物质文化遗产传承保护起着各自不可代替的作用。饮食类非物质文化遗产应该通过数字化信息收集、整理档案资料、培养传承人,推进多样化立体传承发展。②在传承传统餐饮工艺的同时要深入挖掘其文化内涵,允许适度创新,这才是饮食类非物质文化遗产的传承、革新之道。③面对市场经济的“双刃剑”,饮食类非物质文化遗产本身不容易在市场化的语境中传承,需要承借一些行政手段、在不改变非物质文化的本质前提下进行传承。

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    Abstract

    The dietary intangible cultural heritage is derived from the list of human’s intangible cultural heritage and the list of China national intangible cultural heritage. The basic food of China dietary intangible cultural heritage is millet in the north and rice in the south;this is traced by the method of historical geography literature. The heritage bears deep connotation and tradition of Chinese culture. The different dietary intangible cultural heritages embody the prominent national and regional characteristics;the cultural sharing in the process of inheritance carries the unique cultural genes and symbolic meanings. Taking two cases,this article analyses the cultural connotation and inheritance of traditional Chinese rice-pudding and the hard inheritance of the dietary intangible cultural heritage in Lijiang ancient town. Finally,it considers that there are three basic points in the inheritance of the dietary intangible cultural heritage,which are policies interpretation and analysis,techniques renovation and the market situations. (1) People of all ages,all social classes,and departmental agencies are all play an irreplaceable role in the inheritance and protection of the dietary intangible cultural heritage. The dietary intangible cultural heritage should be inherited and developed diversified and three-dimensional through the collection of digital information,archives and documents sorting out and the training of the inheritors. (2) While inheriting the traditional catering techniques,it is necessary to dig deeper into its cultural connotations and allow for appropriate innovations. This is the way to inherit and innovate the dietary intangible cultural heritage. (3) Facing the ‘double-edged sword’ of the market economy,the dietary intangible cultural heritage is not easy to inherit in the context of market economy,and it is necessary to borrow some administrative means to carry on the inheritance without changing the nature of the intangible cultural.

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    作者简介
    张祖群:张祖群,博士后,原首都经济贸易大学工商管理学院旅游管理系副主任,现北京理工大学设计与艺术学院文化遗产系副教授、硕士生导师,主要研究方向为文化遗产、遗产旅游与文化产业。
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