非物质文化遗产这个概念在中国已经从学者的研究领域逐渐走进日常生活、走向现代市场,尤其是在整个社会、文化激荡变化的“十三五”与“十四五”之交,“非遗”作为中国优秀传统文化的核心基因,更在疫情灾难、脱贫攻坚、乡村振兴、文旅融合等国家命运、文化、经济、社会宏大叙事中发挥着独特的作用,饮食类非物质文化遗产作为其中重要组成部分,尽管在时代洪流中彰显着自己的功能和价值,但是在“成为非遗”和“非遗为何”的历程中更多的是挣扎与困惑,所幸2021年初出现在第五批国家级非遗名录中的饮食项目让我们看到饮食非遗保护传承上可能的新变化。在此契机下,本文全面检视了五批国家级非遗名录中饮食项目,以非遗申报以及名录项目为观察切口,从历时维度展现国家级饮食类非遗项目的变化和特点,剖析中国饮食类非遗在认知观念、保护思路、传承模式等方面的新旧态势,并结合当前视频化社会、现代化叙事的语境,提出饮食类非遗保护传承在未来需要审慎处理好表达通俗性与准确性的关系、与可持续发展的关系以及传播与传承的关系。
<<In China,the concept of intangible cultural heritage has gradually stepped into daily life and modern market from the research field of scholars. Especially at the turn of the “13th Five-year Plan” and the “14th Five-year Plan” when the whole society and culture were undergoing drastic changes,“intangible cultural heritage”,as the core gene of China’s excellent traditional culture,plays a unique role in the grand narrative of national destiny,culture,economy and society,such as epidemic disaster,poverty alleviation,rural revitalization,cultural and tourism integration and so on. Intangible dietary cultural heritage,as an important part of the intangible cultural heritage,although it shows its function and value in the torrent of the times,there are more struggles and confusion in the process of “becoming an intangible cultural heritage” and “why is an intangible cultural heritage”. Fortunately,the diet items in the fifth batch of national intangible cultural heritage list at the beginning of 2021 let us see possible new changes in the protection and inheritance of intangible dietary heritage. Under this opportunity,this paper comprehensively examines the diet items in the fifth batch of national intangible cultural heritage list. Taking the declaration of intangible cultural heritage and list items as the start of observation,this paper shows the changes and characteristics of national intangible dietary cultural heritage items from the diachronic perspective,analyzes the new and old trend of Chinese intangible dietary cultural heritage in terms of cognitive concept,protection idea and inheritance mode. In addition,combined with the current context of video-oriented society and modern narration,this paper proposes that the protection and inheritance of intangible cultural dietary heritage needs to carefully deal with the relationship between popularity and accuracy of expression,the relationship with sustainable development,and the relationship between communication and inheritance in the future.
<<Keywords: | Sustainable DevelopmentIntangible Dietary Cultural HeritageIntangible Heritage ListCommunication and Inheritance |