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    2019年中国饮食文化三种表达方式:食材认知、乡土智慧、习俗禁忌

    摘要

    以王国维提出的二重证据(考古实物+文献记载)法,互相对照,共同推进中国饮食文化的学术脉络。将中国饮食文化的哲学表达概括为:“医食同源”,“药膳同功”;“和”合为一,以汤为先。从三种表达方式解构了中国饮食文化体系:中国先民对于主食(南米北面)、动物性食材、花卉食材、香料等具有深厚的文化认知;中国先民在饮食文化方面积累了大量乡土智慧,主要体现在:因地制宜最大程度开拓食材资源,顺天应时食用节气时令食物;采摘野菜有效补充食物来源,讲究食德与规范礼仪;中国先民在饮食文化方面也积累了诸多习俗禁忌:取材避弱小母孕动物;以多种中草药制作屠苏酒、香囊;注重相宜食材搭配和禁忌食物搭配;食用珍稀野生动物,违背天道伦理等。最后对三个问题进行了讨论:饮食文化象征符号体系的构成层次和内涵;讨论人们对食用野生动物的认知偏差,认为“全面禁食野生动物”贵在行动;初步总结和提出了未来中国饮食文化的几点趋向。

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    Abstract

    With the method of two evidence (archaeological objects + documentary records) put forward by Wang Guowei,the academic context of Chinese food culture is jointly promoted by comparing with each other. The philosophical expression of Chinese food culture can be summarized as follows:“Medicine and food share the same origin”,“Medicine and diet have the same function”;“Harmony” is expressed in a cup of tea. The Chinese food culture system is deconstructed from three ways of expression:The Chinese ancestors had profound cultural cognition of staple food (Rice in the south and noodles in the north),animal food,flower food materials and spices;Chinese ancestors have accumulated a lot of local wisdom in food culture,which are mainly reflected in the following aspects:Develop food material resources according to local conditions to the greatest extent,eating seasonal food according to the weather;Picking wild vegetables to effectively supplement food sources and paying attention to food ethics and etiquette;Chinese ancestors also accumulated many customs and taboos in terms of food culture:Small,weak and pregnant animals are avoided to be used as materials;A variety of Chinese herbal medicine are used to make medicated liquor and incense,and attention is paid to the matching of suitable ingredients and taboo food;Eating rare wild animals is against the ethics of natural law. Finally,discussion is made in terms of three issues:The composition level and connotation of the symbolic sign system of food culture;Discussion is made in terms of people’s cognitive bias towards eating wild animals,and it is thought that action is the key to “comprehensive ban on wildlife consumption”;Several trends of Chinese food culture in the future are preliminarily summarized and presented.

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    作者简介
    张祖群:张祖群,博士后,北京理工大学设计与艺术学院文化遗产系副教授、硕士生导师,主要研究方向为文化遗产与艺术设计、文化地理(产业)等。
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