在时尚传播过程中,欧洲时尚的编码者往往会通过“收编”特定的民族符号,以促成其时尚物的风格化创新。本研究以1968~2018年西方时尚中“收编”的中国元素为研究对象,旨在研究在全球文化和现代性肆意横流的今天,欧洲时尚在“凝视”中国的同时折射了一种怎样的中国观和中国形象。研究表明,欧洲时尚所呈现的中国是一种摇摆的、停滞的中国形象,一方面古老、专制,另一方面浪漫、奢华,这与早期西方关于东方的陈述和知识生产模式保持了相对一致的稳定性。欧洲时尚对国际时尚话语权的垄断,使得欧洲时尚在某种意义上具有定义“中国风”,并借“中国风”对中国意义进行再生产的支配能力。
<<This article explores what and how the significations of China’s national images has been produced and communicated by the Chinese-style imagery texts of European fashion of Haute Conture since 1968 to 2018 of 13 classic fashion brands. The findings indicate that the symbols repeatedly and prominently selected and used by European fashion encoders are such remote and traditional Chinese patterns and elements as Chinese dragon,blue-and-white porcelain and silk,by which an ancient China’s image has been framed and represented:on one hand,China is an old,mysterious and stagnant eastern empire,which is far away from modernization;on the other hand,she is a romantic and luxury oriental Utopia. From such China’s images,we can learn mixed European orientalist views of China.
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