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    饮食文化的三个维度:地域标志、文化区划与文化认同

    摘要

    根植于问题意识,以实地调研、文献追踪、案例分析、民族志记录、样本调查五种方法,对饮食文化的三个维度“地域标志、文化区划、文化认同”进行分析,总结饮食文化的本质特征。第一维度即美食成为一种文化吸引物与地域标志文化。美食构成一种文化吸引物与地域标志文化,是具有超越时空生命力的文化存在。第二维度即美食在时空范围内形成相对稳定的文化区划,在中国时空范围内识别四条重要美食文化区划规律,并以北方饮食区(陕西美食、齐鲁美食)、南方饮食区(巴蜀美食)作为例证。第三维度即美食产生文化认同。以岭南凉茶、新疆碱蒿子(面食)、台湾牛肉面为例阐述在我者与他者、故乡与他乡之间产生的文化认同。最后讨论三个维度之间的关系,认为:(1)饮食文化三个维度在本质上是对传统地方饮食文化积淀的历史继承与概括抽取。在饮食文化的三个维度中,三者前后继承。(2)饮食文化的传承主体是根植于地方环境的当地人,要超越饮食文化可以探索“非遗+旅游+美食+节庆”的融合模式。

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    Abstract

    Rooted in the problem consciousness,this paper analyzes the three dimensions of culinary culture,namely,regional indication,cultural division and cultural identity,and summarizes the essential characteristics of culinary culture by means of field investigation,literature tracking,case analysis,ethnographic records and sample investigation. The first dimension means that food becomes a kind of cultural attraction and regional indication culture. Food constitutes a kind of cultural attraction and regional indication culture,and is a kind of cultural existence with vitality beyond time and space. The second dimension is that the cuisine forms a relatively stable cultural division within the space-time scope,and identifies four important cultural division rules within the space-time scope of China,and exemplifies them with the northern food region (Shaanxi food,Shandong food) and the southern food region (Bashu food). The third dimension is that food produces cultural identity. Taking Lingnan herbal tea,Xinjiang alkaline wormwood (pasta) and Taiwan beef noodles as examples,this paper expounds the cultural identity produced between our own and others,and between our hometown and other hometowns. Finally,the relationship between the three dimensions is discussed,and it is concluded that:(1) Essentially,the three dimensions of culinary culture are historical inheritance and generalization of the traditional local food culture. The three dimensions of culinary culture develop on an inheritance basis from the previous one. (2) The main body of culinary culture inheritance is the local people rooted in the local natural and human environment. To transcend the culinary culture,we can explore the integration mode of “intangible cultural heritage + tourism + food + festivals”.

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    作者简介
    张祖群:张祖群,博士后,北京理工大学设计与艺术学院文化遗产系副教授、硕士导师,主要研究方向为文化遗产与文化地理(产业)等。
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